Double-woven-collar fabric



Dec. 14, 1926. 1,610,576

v vJ. V. MOORE DOUBLE WOVEN COLLAR FABRIC Filed Jan. 23, 1924 57e we@PMM' l' 50/ Paf/w 50 enoff per lim/ -J 66 ,oer

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Patented Dec. 1.4, 1926.

'Unire sraras PTENT OFFICE.

JOI-IN V. MOORE, OF IAW'T'UCKET, RHODE II'LANID, ASSIG-NOR, BY ASSGN-MENTS, TO VAN I-EUSEN PRODUCTS, INC., A CORPORATION OF DELAVARE.

DO'BLE-WOVEN-COLLAR FABC.

Application led January 23, 1924. Serial No. 688,095.

rihis invention relates to a double woven fabric particularly adapted tothe manufacture of soft or semi-soft collars for mens wear. As suchcollars are not strictly confined to a fixed form, it is desirable thatthey be given a natural and well defined'fold line, so that they mayassume the desired shape when in use..

lt is the object of my invention to provide a multiple ply interwovencollar fabric in which the fold occurs adjacent the union or point ofengagement of two different fabric portions having distanctcharacteristics. in

the preferred form these fabric portions differ from each other in thesize and spacing of the warp threads but not ordinarily in the structureof the weave. y

A further obj ect of my invention is to pro vide a multiple plyinterwoven collar fabric in which a narrow intermediate folding -portionis vprovided between the face portion and the band portion, this narrowintermediate portion didering from both other portions, eitherin thesize or in the spacing of l5 the warp threads.

A preferred form of the invention and two modifications thereof are.shown in the drawings, in which Fig. l isa fragmentary plan view of apor- !0 tion of my improved fabric;

Fig. 2 is a partial transverse sectional ele` vation talren along theline 2-2 in Fig. l;

Fig. 3 is a partial longitudinal sectional elevation taken along theline 3-3 in Fig. l;

86 Fig. i is a partial transverse sectional elevation of a modification,and

Fig. 5 is a similar view of a second modi* fication.

Referring particularly to Figs. l and 3,

60 I have shown a collar fabric which is preferably woven in curvilinearform and which comprises an outer or face portion 10 and an inner orband portion 1l. As shown in Fig. 3, the fabric is of the multiple plyinterwoven type, having face warps W, back warps W', a stuffer warp S,which may be omitted if desired, binder warps B and filling F. rIhestuffer warps S are shown in Figs. 2, 4 and 5 by the dotted circleslying between the two surface plies. The weave may be of the common form.shown in Fig. 3 or may be varied to suit the requirements of aparticular fabric.

A novel feature of my invention consists in providing certain parts ofthe fabric with warp threads differing in size or spacing from the warpthreads in other parts. of the fabric. As .illustrative of my invention,l have indicated in Fig. l an outer face portion formed with No. 8Othreads, doubled and spaced 100 ends to the inch, while the back of thisportion is formed of No. 30 threads, doubled and spaced 50 threads tothe inch. Both inner and outer parts of the band portion ll areindicated aspformed of No. 30 threads, doubled and spaced 66 ends to theinch.

A fabric formed inv this way has the advantage of using fine warpthreads closely spaced on the outer surface of the face portion only,saving material and expense by utilizing relatively coarse threads inthe other parts of the fabric and by spacing these coarse threads morewidely apart. Furthermore, the line of engagement ofthe fine faceportion and the coarse back 'por tion naturally forms a well definedfold line for the fabric.

It will be understood that the fabric i commonly woven in a narrow wareloom,

having a compound reed with fine spacing'r of the reed dents on one sideof the dividing line between the fabrics and with relatively cotrsespacing of the reed dents on the other si e.

In Fig. 4 I have indicated a slightly different construction but one bywhich substantially similar' results may be obtained. The fine faceportion 20 and the inside or band portion 2l of the fabrick are of thesame size and spacing of warp threads as in Fig. 2, previouslydescribed, but an inter mediate dividing or folding portion 22 isprovided between the portions 20 and 21. For the outer part of thisintermediate portion 22 I have continued the No. 30 threads y as usedfor the fine face portion of the collar, but these threads are spacedwith only 66 ends to the inch, corresponding to the spacing vof thecoarse warp threads in the band portion 21 of the fabric. The back ofthe dividing portion is somewhat more loosely woven than either the faceor the band portions and contains No. 30 threads, doubled and spaced 33ends per inch. This dividing portion forms a natural fold for thefabric, owing to its more open spacing.

In Fig. 5, the construction of the face portion 30 and the band portion31 is similar to that shown in Fig. 2, but the outer part of theintermediate dividing or folding portion 32 is formed of No. 120 warpthreads, doubled and spaced 100 ends to the inch, and the rear surfaceof the part 32 is formed of No. warp threads, doubled and spaced 5G endsper inch. The result of using these extra line warp threads for theintermediate portion 32 is to provide a natural fold line of appreciablewidth between the face and thel band portions of the fabric.

Having thus described my invention, the advantages thereof will bereadily apparent'.- and it will be seen that only one thickness of theface portion of the fabric need be made from the fine and closely spacedwarp threads, while the other three portions of the fabric may be ofrelatively coarse matcrial widely spaced. Furthermore, cach of the threefabrics provides a natural fold line and maintains substantially itsfull strength at the fold line, a marked advantage over certain fabricsheretofore used forl this purpose.

Having thus described my intention and the advantages thereof l do notwish to be limited to the details herein disclosed otherwise than as setforth in the laims but what I claim is l. A multiple ply interwovencollar fabric comprising fabric portions of uniform weave throughout anddiffering from each other in the size of the warp threads therein, saidfabric portions at their point of engagement forming a natural fold linefor said fabric.

2. A multiple ply interwoven collar fabric comprising fabric portions ofuniform weave throughout and differing from eacl other in size andspacing' of the warp threads therein, said fabric portions forming attheir point of engagement a natural fold line for said fabric.

3. A multiple ply interwoven collar fabric comprising a face portionhaving an outer surface with closely spaced line warp threads and aninner surface with warp threads more widely spaced7 and a band portionformed with relatively coarse warp threads relatively widely spaced.

el. fr multiple ply interwoven collar fabric comprising a face portionhaving an outer surface with closely spaced fine warp threads and aninner surface with coarse warp threads more widely spaced, and a bandportion with both inner and outer surfaces having relatively coarse warpthreads relatively widely spaced.

A multiple ply interwoven collar fabric comprising two distinctlongitudinally disposed parallel portions. the outer surface of oneportion being formed of closely spaced fine warp threads and the backsurface of said portion and all the other portion beingformed of coarserwarp threads more widely spaced.

(S. fr multiple ply interwoven collar fabric comprising two distinctlongitudinally disposed parallel portions, the outer surface of oneportion being formed of closely .frpacerL tine warp threads and the backsurface of said portion and all the other portion beingformed of coarserwarp threads more widely spaced, said fabric having a narrow portiondividing said two parallel portions. and said narrow portion having aface with fine warp threads widely spaced. and a bach with coarse warpthreads also widely s aced.

i'. A n'inltiple ply interwoven collar fabrie comprising two distinctylongitudinally disposed parallel portions, the outer surace of oneportion being formed of closely paced tine warp threads, and the backurface of said portion and all the other po; ion being formed of coarserwarp threads more widely spaced, said fabric having a narrow portiondividing said two parallel portions, and said narrow portion having aface with extra line warp threads closely spaced and a back with warpthreads somewhat finer than the others in the back and widely spaced.

ln testimony whereof I have hereunto affixed my signature.

JOHN V. MOQRE.

